Caring for your growing investment

A Guide to Protecting Your New Landscape

Watering New Sod

Pay attention to the weather and observe your new sod daily to ensure success. Peel back corners of the sod pieces throughout the yard and touch the ground underneath. Water should have penetrated through the soil layer of the new sod and the ground should be moist/wet with a slight “give” when you walk across it. Keep in mind that the goal is to keep new sod "wet like a sponge" until roots form and you feel resistance due to roots tacking your new sod to the ground. The timetable will vary for root formation: it could take 2-3 weeks of daily watering in the heat of summer or as long as the entire winter if you've laid dormant sod.

Below are some helpful tips to ensure the successful watering of your new lawn during the growing season:

• Irrigation of the lawn should be performed in the early hours of the morning just before daylight. This practice will avoid any rapid evaporation of water before it reaches the lawn; yet allow the leaf tissue to dry quickly after the sun rises.  Avoid watering in the late afternoon or at night, if possible.

• Water your lawn deeply with 1-1.5 inches of water per week in the Summer or per month in the Fall and Winter. The length of time will vary depending on your water pressure and type of irrigation system. For more information on calculating irrigation water usage and costs, click todayshomeowner.com/calculating-lawn-irrigation-costs.

• It’s advisable to water your grass deeply and infrequently. In other words, try watering two or three days per week for longer times as opposed to every day for just a light watering. Infrequent but deep watering helps to condition the grass roots to grow deeper into the soil profile. With deeper root establishment, the grass can benefit from increased moisture access.

• You may need to increase watering to twice per day every day for the first week if sod is laid during hot temperatures. During the winter, newly planted sod may only need watering once per week to help keep the roots moist.

• Adjust your watering schedule depending on how much rainfall you’re receiving in your area. For instance, if there are puddles of water on your lawn after consecutive days of heavy downpours, avoid irrigating your lawn during that week. Once the rainfall stops and the runoff water is absorbed, you can resume your regular irrigation schedule.

• It is important to note that overwatering the sod is just as harmful as under watering.

Pro Tip: Heat transfers from paved surfaces and will dry out adjacent new sod much faster than the rest of the new yard. For this reason, pay close attention to the watering needs of newly laid sod around driveways and sidewalks.

Watering New Sod in Winter

It’s important to note that sod can be planted during any season here in Chattanooga. Summer and fall may be more ideal times, but with proper care winter is still a good time of year to install new sod. Just as in the spring and summer, you’ll need to water sod immediately after it is installed. This applies to both Fescue and dormant warm season sod like Bermuda. Even if it’s dormant, you’ll still need to keep it moist until it takes root in the spring and greens up.

Pay attention to the weather and observe your new sod daily. Watering in the winter is a balancing act, just like in the summer, but for different reasons.

The following are some tips for watering newly installed sod in the winter:

• Water during mid-day when temperatures are warmest. This helps to make sure water actually reaches the roots of the sod before freezing.

• Only water if the temperature of the air is 40 degrees or above, and the ground is not frozen.

• Take into account snow and other precipitation and adjust your watering accordingly. You may only need to water once or twice each month through the dormant winter season, depending on the amount of snow or rain. Dormant grassroots still need about 0.25 inches of water weekly to become established.

• Make sure all areas of the sod receive adequate water. Edges, corners, and areas closer to buildings all have a tendency to dry out faster and may need more water.

• As always, try to stay off new sod as much as possible. During freezing weather, walking on the grass can cause the frozen crowns to break, killing the young plants.

Important: Due to freezing temperatures, it’s important to winterize your sprinklers and blow out the lines to prevent pipes from cracking and leaking. Another consideration is that many municipal water supplies are shut off in late fall, which means you may need to water by hand using a hose or watering can.

Mowing New Sod

Try and keep off of your new lawn as much as possible during the first few weeks. Allow the roots to get fully established before regular mowing so that the sod does not get pulled or damaged. Although, some sources recommend mowing after the first week with a push mower. You can check for good rooting by tugging on a handful of sod (it should not pull up if rooted properly).  Use a push mower at first, if possible, and avoid tight turns that may pull up the grass or leave ruts. You can use a riding mower once the sod has rooted and can’t be pulled up (usually after a few weeks). Be sure not to scalp the lawn by having the blade height set too low. Rather, set your blade height higher than usual until the sod has completely rooted. You should maintain a grass height of 2-3 inches tall. This is optimal blade length to allow photosynthesis to occur and to help fight off weeds. It’s important that your mower blades are sharpened so they make clean cuts and don’t rip the grass blades. Try to remove grass clippings so they don’t suffocate the new roots either by raking them up or using a bagger. Once the sod is established, you can leave the clippings, if desired. There are several pros and cons to leaving grass clippings after mowing. For more information, visit lawnlove.com/blog/bagging-vs-mulching-grass-clippings.

Pro Tip: Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade height to ensure healthy growth and reduce weeds.  The best height is between 2 and 3 inches, generally speaking.

Watering Plants

We planted your new shrubs carefully at the proper depth and added soil amendments to encourage root growth. Now that the plants are in the ground it is imperative that they get sufficient amounts of water from the start, especially since many plants die from too little or too much water during the first few months after planting. Those in well-drained soil likely get too little water, while those in poorly drained soil get too much. In Chattanooga, more often then not the soil is mostly hard clay that drains slowly and makes it difficult for roots to penetrate. The best way to see if your plants are getting enough water is to observe them as much as possible.  If the leaves are drooping or browning then they are most likely not being watered enough.  

Unfortunately, plants show the same signs whether they are watered too much or too little. Chattanooga has a lot of hard clay soils so the water tends to pool under the roots of newly planted shrubs. Thus, we suggest under-watering slightly, at first, and then increasing the amount of water for the plants that show signs of stress (leaves are drying up, curling, wilting or turning brown). Some common signs of overwatering are leaves turning yellow or brown and lesions that turned dark colors. Root rot is caused when the soil remains wet for too long of a period and does not dry out. The best way to prevent overwatering is checking the top 2 inches of soil to make sure it is dry before watering again. Of course, the type of plant, how big it is, and how much sun or shade it receives will effect the amount of water that is needed. To maintain rapid growth, shrubs and trees transplanted into well-drained soil require daily irrigation for at least the first month.  It may be necessary to add supplemental water by hand during times of drought if you have an irrigation system. Here are some helpful tips to watering your new plants:

• Water the plants soon after being planted. This includes the soil around it to help promote root growth.

• It is best to water new plants right at the plant base as opposed to spraying the whole plant. This can be done for a group of new plants with a soaker hose laid out so it runs by the base of all the new plants or with a garden hose wand.

• Whether you’re watering a group of plants with a soaker hose or just one plant with the end of a regular hose, water with a slow, steady trickle for 20-30 minutes in the Summer (less in the Winter). Never blast water on the base of the plant, as this causes erosion of the soil and wastes all the water that the plant doesn’t get the chance to soak up.

• For the first week, continue to water plants with regular watering needs every morning or so with a slow steady trickle for 20-30 minutes. If there is more than one inch (2.5 cm.) of rainfall in your area, you do not need to water that day.

• In the second week, you can wean the plant by watering every other day with a slow steady trickle for about 20-30 minutes.

• In the third week you can wean your plants even more by watering them only 2-3 times per week.

• After the first few weeks, continue watering new plants 2-3 times a week for the rest of their first growing season.

• Adjust watering for the weather; if you’re getting a lot of rain, water less. If it is hot and dry, water more. Newly planted shrubs during the winter may not need to be watered as aggressively.
  
  

Pro Tip: Consider extra water for larger shrubs and trees, if necessary. If you have an in-ground irrigation system, use a hose to provide supplemental water for roots deep down.

Watering Plants in Winter

It is often a misconception that you do not need to water during the winter. This is simply not the case! While the amount of watering needed is much less than during the summer, plants can still dry out during the winter and become dehydrated, even if dormant. This is especially true for newly planted trees and shrubs. Since our area is not prone to frequent snow, supplemental watering throughout the winter is important. In addition, watering can actually help to insulate roots and protect the plants from hard freezes and cold snaps during the night.

Prepare your plants for winter survival by keeping them well-hydrated throughout the fall. During the colder months, you should water once or twice a month, generally speaking. Newly installed plants will require a little more water since the roots have not yet been established, making them more prone to winter damage. Choose days where there is no snow on the ground, and water in the early afternoon during the warmer time of the day. It is best not to overspray the entire plant, as this can damage the leaves or stems when temperatures dip below freezing. Rather, you should concentrate watering around the root balls and under the canopy (for trees). Lastly, if possible, water when the soil is dry to the touch, the temperature is not below 40 degrees F. and while the wind isn't blowing.

Important: Be sure to disconnect your hoses and drain them to prevent spigots and hoses from freezing and cracking. Any above ground pipes and spigots should be insulated during freezing temperatures.

Protecting Your Plants from Freezing Temps

Very cold temperatures and especially frost can be devastating to plants and trees in your landscape. Though your plants are resilient, it is important that they are watered and protected correctly during extremely cold times. Let’s go over ways to prevent winter damage when freezing temperatures are expected.

Though we strive to use plant material that can withstand the various temperatures throughout the year, extreme weather conditions may pose a threat to your plants and trees. This is especially true during times of a hard freeze, which occurs during periods of at least four consecutive hours of temperatures that are below 28 degrees F. In general, native species are more likely to survive since they have natural defenses to our local weather patterns. Species of plants that are not regularly abundant in our region (Zone 7) are the most susceptible to winter damage. Pay close attention to your veggies, herbs, and annuals as they are the most tender. Your perennials, which come back year after year, can more than likely handle the freezing temps. However, species that are native to tropical areas of the world should be given extra protection. Plants and trees that fruit or flower in the summer will also be very vulnerable.

Here are some effective strategies to shield your plants from freezing temperatures during the winter season:

Cover Plants with a Sheet

Covering your plants with sheets, blankets, burlap, or a frost cloth is a great way to help mitigate the devastating effects of freezing winds and temperatures. It is crucial not to use plastic or tarp since it can trap in moisture and damage or kill the plants. Be sure to remove the covering the next morning to let it any trapped moisture air out and prevent root rot. For smaller plants, you can use a pot or bucket to cover them.

Bring Potted Plants Indoor

Potted plants and hanging baskets should be brought inside since they are more prone to damage from freezing temperatures. This is because their roots do not have sufficient insulation like in-ground plants do. Try to put them near a window so they can still get sunlight during the day. And it’s best to keep them away from your houseplants to prevent the spread of insects.

Mulching

Adding a thick layer of organic mulch in your plant beds will help to stabilize the soil temperature. The best types of mulch are wood chips, shredded bark, pine straw, or leaves from the yard. You will want about 3-4 inches of mulch to create a nice layer of insulation. But be sure not to pile up around the stem or you could damage your trees and shrubs. This will also help any warmth and moisture to travel through the plant.

Water in the Afternoon

Believe it or not, moisture can help to protect plants from freezing by adding insulation and protecting them overnight. While your trees and shrubs will not need regular watering during the winter, it’s best to water your plants in the afternoon during the warmest part of the day. Dehydrated plants are more susceptible to winter damage; thus, if possible, keep them watered leading up to the first freeze so they are well hydrated. It is important not to overwater and create pooling around your trees and shrubs to prevent root rot.

While it is difficult to prevent any damage at all to your landscape from sudden freezing temperatures, this guide should help you to succeed through any hard freezes in the winter, as well as any cold snaps during the fall and spring months. By using certain methods such as covering plants and mulching, and by following proper watering techniques, your trees and shrubs will have a much higher success rate during times of freezes. Most of the species we use are cold hardy and should be fine during the winter, but some plants are not equipped to withstand the extreme cold temperatures that we sometimes get. If you have any questions on how to prevent winter damage to your landscape, Full Circle Land Design is just a call or click away!

Pruning

Pruning is just as important to the health of plants as proper planting, watering, and fertilizing.  Spring-flowering shrubs, such as Azaleas, Loropetalums, and Cherry Laurels, should be pruned immediately after blooming.  Shrubs that bloom in summer and fall, and shrubs grown primarily for their foliage, can be pruned in early spring before growth starts.  Examples include Hydrangeas, Knockout Roses, Hollies, and Crape Myrtles.  Keep in mind that most plants can be pruned year-round to maintain a neat appearance or proper size, as needed.

Pro Tip: Do not place mulch directly against plant crowns or tree bases. Mulch placed directly in contact with stems or tree trunks may retain excess moisture around the base of the plant which can foster a whole host of diseases, including crown rot. High piles of mulch can also become a bit of a varmint hotel, attracting predatory insects and bark and stem-eating rodents. Give the base of your plants and shrubs a little bit of room to breathe.